volcán barú

Four tectonic plates converged millions of years ago to form Panama, and its highest point is Volcán Barú. The last seven eruptions here have enriched the land with nutrient-dense soil, which, when combined with the elevation, topography, and climate of the Panamanian cloud forest, has imbued this region with unmatched coffee terroir.

Barú Estates

Area: 270 hectares

Acquired in 2019, Barú Estates represents the future of Ninety Plus while embracing ancient, low density land use methods that pay homage to coffee’s history in the forests of Ethiopia. Located in a more arid region of Volcán Barú, the lesser rainfall slightly stresses the coffee plants, further concentrating flavor and aroma.

Gesha Estates

Area: 200 hectares

Ninety Plus founder Joseph Brodsky acquired this property in 2009 and spent years reforesting these former cattle farming lands before planting thousands of shade-loving Ethiopian gesha coffee plants beneath the forest canopy. The abundant rainfall at Gesha Estates, up to three meters annually, imparts a fresh taste to the resulting coffee beans.

Rio Colorado

Hiking the Rio Colorado, meaning colored river, is a quintessential experience at Gesha Estates. Cracks in rocks seep hot mineral water, and these warm pools balance the refreshing chill of the spring-fed river. The forest rises steeply on both sides as one wades through small rapids, endless swimming pools, and small waterfalls, passing near plantings where our best Juliette coffees have been produced.

Petroglyphs

Pre-Columbian, of indigenous Ngäbe-Buglé origin

This field dotted with 8,000 year old petroglyphs was discovered in 2018 in a remote and difficult-to-access part of the property. A rare flat area within the rugged cloud forest, it appears to have been a comfortable living, resting, and perhaps agricultural space for ancient indigenous populations. The plantings that have produced the best Lycello coffees are near these petroglyphs.

Magic Waterfall

This 30 meter waterfall is buried deep within a cloud forest canyon up a tributary of the Rio Colorado. Although not formally named, we refer to this small river as the Magic River, as the waded ascent to the waterfall passes through corridors of flowers, hanging gardens, and colorful mineral waters. This path takes one very close to the plantings that produced the first Tigre coffee from Ninety Plus.

Indigenous Burial Ground

Pre-Columbian, of indigenous Ngäbe-Buglé origin

Whereas ancient populations likely lived at lower elevations, the highest points appear to be where people were laid to rest. These burial grounds are atop the highest peak at Gesha Estates, overlooking Mount Totumas and Amistad National Park. Nearby plantings demonstrate elegant forest and coffee integration, and are the same plants that produce Carmo coffee and the famous Batch #227.

Grandfather Tree

Strangler Fig, Ficus Aurea

400+ years old

Although it resembles a tree, a Strangler Fig is actually a vine that parasitizes a host tree and takes on its form over hundreds of years, leaving a hollow trunk behind. The Grandfather Tree–called such as it reminds us of the ancients and of ancient wisdom–is near large Ethiopian heirloom coffee gardens, reminding us of legendary Drima Zede coffee.

Kamak River

The Kamak River is named after the word for “brother” in Bulgarian, as the Kamak joins its sibling, the Blue River, at the entrance to Gesha Estates. Rising from the Kamak to the west are small forested coffee valleys that, although easily accessible, offer large pockets of complete natural seclusion. The highest points above the Kamak have grown our best Perci coffees.

Blue River

The Blue River is named after Joseph’s son, who learned to swim there in pools near the main house at Gesha Estates. The major spring feeding the Blue River provides water for those living and working at the Estates. Wading the Blue River offers easy access to cascades and pools in a wild cloud forest. The first Yuzo coffees were cold fermented within this river’s cool waters.

Quetzal Forest

The gateway to the Quetzal Forest lies adjacent to a flat treeless area created by the Barú Volcano’s last eruption approximately 500 years ago. Experiencing this transition, from barren field to deep forest, is like being transported to another world. Here, the rarest bird in Panama–the Resplendent Quetzal–can be heard making its ethereal call, reminding us of the lands that produce Nekisse coffee in Southern Ethiopia.

Puma Spring

The trail through the flatland forest at the east end of the Barú Crater narrows and ascends rapidly when reaching Puma Spring, a forest oasis for the many animals there. Planted in recent years, the coffee near Puma Spring has not yet been tasted, but we expect it will be reminiscent of Ninety Plus Kemgin coffee.

Tree Bridge

Strangler Fig, Ficus Aurea

This rare example of a Strangler Fig grows horizontally just a few meters off the ground, creating a bridge to climb, brew coffee, and view the gardens below. The coffee here grows slowly within the dense shade of the old growth forest, which is home to countless animals, including a solitary jaguar. The rare nature of this place reminds us of our precious Ruby coffee.

Crater Ridge

Crater Ridge runs several kilometers through bamboo forests along the eastern edge of Barú Estates, periodically framing views of Volcán Barú, Barú Crater, and the Pacific ocean. Immense trees inhabit the highest elevations, and the nearby headwaters of the Bregue and Piedras rivers are among the purest springs found on earth, reminding us of the origins of our Sillvia cold water processed coffees.

Reflection Lake

This seasonal lake fills a portion of the Barú Estates crater, up to 30 hectares, each year during the rainy season, and grows large enough for canoeing and diving. Doubling the magnitude of the Barú Estates views from the crater basin, a dip in Reflection Lake makes one feel immersed in the surrounding landscape. The rarity with which this lake fills with water reminds us of the preciousness of our Limited Edition coffees.

Dragon's Back

This dramatic ridge rises from within the Barú Crater and drops steeply on all sides, affording panoramic views of the nearby mountainsides of cloud forest coffee, the crater plains below, Volcán Barú, and the Pacific Ocean. Kambera coffee was first brewed on Dragon’s Back, an experience that heightened the spectacular views.