A GUIDE TO NINETY PLUS COFFEE STYLES
At Ninety Plus, the styles of coffee we produce result not only from the varieties we grow (e.g., gesha, mixed heirloom), but also from the actions we take on each coffee from the time the cherries are harvested to the time the coffees are ready for roasting. These actions include, but are not limited to, the removal (or purposeful non-removal) of the coffee seeds from the cherries, the length of time the coffee seeds are dried or rested (sometimes for months to enhance flavor), and the length and complexity of the fermentation period. The specific actions taken have a dramatic effect on the flavors and aromas present in the final cup.
Practices most familiar to coffee drinkers include washed processing, honey processing, and natural processing. These are methods we utilize for many of our coffees. We have also developed several proprietary techniques that utilize more experimental methods, including fast and slow fermentation, anaerobic environments, controlled temperatures, and use of parts of the coffee plant other than the cherries and seeds during fermentation.
Here, we describe some of these traditional and experimental techniques to help you understand how the distinctive and unique flavor profiles of our coffees are affected by the styles in which we produce them.
WASHED PROCESS
Washed coffees are those that, after harvest, have had the cherry removed and which then are immediately rinsed thoroughly with water to remove any foreign matter. The washed seeds are then briefly dry fermented and then rinsed again, resulting in clean seeds ready for drying. Washed processing produces a clean and bright flavor profile with citrus and floral notes, depending on coffee variety and terroir. Lycello is a classic example of a washed coffee, with flavors of magnolia and Meyer lemon.
HONEY PROCESS
Similar to washed coffees, honey processed coffees first have their outer layer of fruit removed. However, the resulting seeds are not subsequently rinsed. Rather, the sticky, sweet mucilage, from which honey processing derives its name, is left on the seeds. The mucilage ferments during the drying process and contributes complexity, richer mouthfeel, and a subtle sweetness to the final cup. We utilize the honey process for our Juliette coffee, creating fruit-forward flavors of candied orange and jackfruit.
NATURAL PROCESS
Also known as the dry process, natural processing is one of the oldest and most traditional coffee processing methods. Unlike washed and honey processed coffees, coffees that are naturally processed are left with their outer layer of fruit. This fruit ferments while the coffee dries, which, depending on the weather and the desired flavor profile, can last anywhere from several days to a few weeks. The resulting coffee develops full-bodied and fruity flavors. Perci’s flavor profile typifies naturally processed coffees, with strawberry and milk chocolate notes.
THERMOLIC™ COFFEE
The Thermolic™ style was among the first of the Ninety Plus experimental methods. The term ThermolicTM refers to the use of heat to expedite chemical reactions during fermentation. Using the sun, we gradually warm freshly picked coffee cherries to a predetermined fermentation temperature, accelerating the breakdown of sugars in the coffee mucilage. This temperature increase is performed within an anaerobic environment, which promotes bacteria that thrive in oxygen-free environments.
Thermolic™ coffees are rich in body and wild, often with wine-like flavors and laden with chocolate. Heavy and adventurous with notes of dark chocolate, date, and clove, Kambera is a quintessential example of a Thermolic™ coffee.
CRIOLIC™ COFFEE
The opposite of Thermolic™, the Criolic™ method employs low temperatures to decelerate the decomposition of sugars in the coffee mucilage. To do so, we submerge freshly picked coffee cherries in the chilly waters of the rivers that wind through the Ninety Plus estates, exposing the coffee to extremely cold temperatures. Other parts of the coffee plant (e.g., leaf, flower, etc.) are also introduced during this process to provide more depth and complexity.
Criolic Folio™ coffees are generally refreshing and elegant with a light to medium body, and often exhibit vibrant, citrusy, and floral characteristics. Yuzo is a prime expression of a Criolic Folio™ coffee, with its effervescence and lemon, grape, and honey flavors.
NATURAL FOLIO™
Natural Folio™ style coffees are fermented at ambient temperatures, as with traditional natural process coffees, but also represent a broader culinary adventure through coffee. Terroir is expressed not only through the coffee seeds (beans) but also through the addition of other components of the coffee plant and even sometimes native fruits and plants during the fermentation process.
Depending upon the components of the coffee plant used, the flavors of Natural Folio™ coffees can be citric, tea-like, herbal, or laden with tropical fruit. Ninety Plus coffees that utilize Natural Folio™ techniques include Carmo, Tigre, and Ruby.
The techniques we employ to create our unique coffee styles are an extension of our philosophy as a whole. We simultaneously utilize traditional processing practices–paying homage to the history of coffee production in Ethiopia and around the world–and experimental methods that push the boundaries of what coffee is and can be, and do so by responsibly utilizing the abundance of the Panamanian cloud forest that surrounds our estates. Our goal is to continually merge the old and new in exciting and innovative ways to produce what many say are among the best coffees on earth.